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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 10:14 pm 
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Mattie wrote:
How much longer do you need? Unless you're working with external battery packs for your sensor and flashes, I don't think the camera battery will be the limiting factor. A battery grip seems overkill if you're planning on leaving the camera in the field for ±8 weeks at the time. But maybe you're have some long term plans?

Wouldn't the battery grip be of use if you are doing a build that does both video as well as pictures?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 6:15 am 
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Lol Daryl, a whole new can of worms. Good luck with it, plenty of equipment to setup and get right, lots of trial and error.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 12:37 pm 
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buckhuntertrailcam wrote:
Lol Daryl, a whole new can of worms. Good luck with it, plenty of equipment to setup and get right, lots of trial and error.


Thanks Trevor.. I think .. lol


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 11:15 am 
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I would suggest a simple approach first and not to use a battery grip at first. If you find you want extra life you can even get dummy batteries that connect to external power. But mostly I think you will be fine without it.

I'm relatively new to enclosure based camera trapping but have done simple stuff with remote triggers and storm covers as well as expedition photography and astro - your camera batteries, except in extreme cold will last a long while.

Get your dslr, release trigger and test that setup at home. Then plan out your system, get your flashes and connect it all up. Evolve your system to meet your needs and you will get lots of enjoyment.

Happy snapping


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 12:03 pm 
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Philldixon wrote:
I would suggest a simple approach first and not to use a battery grip at first. If you find you want extra life you can even get dummy batteries that connect to external power. But mostly I think you will be fine without it.

I'm relatively new to enclosure based camera trapping but have done simple stuff with remote triggers and storm covers as well as expedition photography and astro - your camera batteries, except in extreme cold will last a long while.

Get your dslr, release trigger and test that setup at home. Then plan out your system, get your flashes and connect it all up. Evolve your system to meet your needs and you will get lots of enjoyment.

Happy snapping


Thanks so much for your input .. much appreciated


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2020 9:00 pm 
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[quote="ghosthunters"]I have been reading and reading and now I am not sure what DSLR camera I should try. I have built many point and shoot cams and wanna try a DSLR. Give me some options and a short reason why. I don’t wanna sell the farm so to speak but I want good quality. I have to start somewhere and research is ongoing .. but would like to start searching for a camera.

Hey ghosthunters, I've been reluctant to chime in because, unlike most on this site, I've never built my own camera trap, but had Jeff at TRLcam.com build a trap for me. However, it occurred to me that I've been paying a great deal of attention to what folks are doing on this site and of course, I too have an opinion. Here is my thought process - for what it's worth...Given the large amount of time, energy expended, the fact I'm not getting any younger and the other fact that good camera trap images are rare, I decided to throw some cash at the best valued full-frame camera body I could afford - Nikon D810. This camera body is not cheap, but reasonably priced when shopping on Craigslist, Ebay or whatever. Bonus: the NEF (RAW) setting captures enough data that I can fix most of my mistakes and sometimes, very rarely, capture a descent image worthy of a magazine cover. However, I view posts from guys like Casey Smartt here https://caseysmartt.com/2017/04/30/bobcat-sneaking/ and Zach (just to name a few) here on the camtrapper forum capturing plenty of pro-level images with a Nikon D7000 at half the price of a Nikon D810. I think it comes down to what you hope to do with the finished product? Best of luck. BTW: my latest cam trap build (again, by Jeff) is a Canon 5DSr (50 megapixel). I have not deployed it yet, but my theory of not getting any younger, amount of work expended and very small number of quality images made me go for it! Good luck buddy and keep us all posted, eh?!


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2020 9:30 pm 
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Kalon wrote:
ghosthunters wrote:
I have been reading and reading and now I am not sure what DSLR camera I should try. I have built many point and shoot cams and wanna try a DSLR. Give me some options and a short reason why. I don’t wanna sell the farm so to speak but I want good quality. I have to start somewhere and research is ongoing .. but would like to start searching for a camera.

Hey ghosthunters, I've been reluctant to chime in because, unlike most on this site, I've never built my own camera trap, but had Jeff at TRLcam.com build a trap for me. However, it occurred to me that I've been paying a great deal of attention to what folks are doing on this site and of course, I too have an opinion. Here is my thought process - for what it's worth...Given the large amount of time, energy expended, the fact I'm not getting any younger and the other fact that good camera trap images are rare, I decided to throw some cash at the best valued full-frame camera body I could afford - Nikon D810. This camera body is not cheap, but reasonably priced when shopping on Craigslist, Ebay or whatever. Bonus: the NEF (RAW) setting captures enough data that I can fix most of my mistakes and sometimes, very rarely, capture a descent image worthy of a magazine cover. However, I view posts from guys like Casey Smartt here https://caseysmartt.com/2017/04/30/bobcat-sneaking/ and Zach (just to name a few) here on the camtrapper forum capturing plenty of pro-level images with a Nikon D7000 at half the price of a Nikon D810. I think it comes down to what you hope to do with the finished product? Best of luck. BTW: my latest cam trap build (again, by Jeff) is a Canon 5DSr (50 megapixel). I have not deployed it yet, but my theory of not getting any younger, amount of work expended and very small number of quality images made me go for it! Good luck buddy and keep us all posted, eh?!


I am so glad you replied Kalon .. first off that’s what this is all about ... opinions, discussion and replies. lol .. thanks for your input and participation.. I have to agree with you, you get what you pay for and a picture is more than just a picture.

I have met a lot of people now who are willing to help me get started off on the right foot and headed in the right direction. I too said the same thing as you... I am not getting any younger and I truly live in an area that has a abundance of so many different animals that are begging to be my subject matter. I want to take advantage of this and take this all to the next level ... that my friend is why I chose this time to get into DSLR’s as well.

I will most definitely keep you posted. Again thanks for the encouragement and your opinions. They are truly valued.

Daryl Dean (ghosthunters)


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2020 3:06 pm 
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Hi Daryl
Can I just chuck in that cameras are not as important as good glass in a decent image. Any dslr in the last 10 years is going to give you great imagery, almost beyond the wildest dreams.
However marry it to a too slow or duff lens and you get rubbish images - you don't need an expensive lens just choose wisely ( some older lenses are as good as all singing new ones).
Similarly the bigger and better the camera, the more it highlights poor focus and glass. Case in point the Nikon AF 50mm f1.4d is better optically than the plastic af-s G model imho for a fraction the price 2nd hand.
While the 24-120mm f3.5-5.6 lens is shockingly bad compared to the newer 24-120mm f4 kit lens or original film lens.
If you go FX then wide angles can be more expensive ( dx an 18-55mm kit lens is pretty darn great) but there are a few bargains.
Similarly don't buy the fastest lens you can afford as you probably don't need it - my 35mm f1.8g dx works well on an FX ( one of few exceptions) and is a fraction the price of FX contemporary

I have owned the D810 which is a fantastic camera. For a slightly cheaper alternative consider the D610 or for excellent low-light the D750 if you are sold on FX.
Skip the D600 as early models had a debris on sensor issue that gave them a bad rep and not everyone had the fix ( especially grey imports).
Second hand sub - 60k actuation models will give good service

Whatever you choose the camera is just a tool and there'll be lots of learning + enjoyment. Most importantly we are here to advise, you ultimately make the decision.

I personally own at the min
D850
D610
D500
D7200
D7100
D7000
D5100
D3200

Several of these were bought for special projects or astromod / full spectrum mod. None of these cameras has ever given me reason not to recommend them and all would likely do what you want - deliver great imagery.
Case in point my D5100 sits in the boot of my car with an old 55-300mm dx on it in case I come across something interesting, it still gives a great image and is 100× better than the camera sat at home not in my hand.

Nothing stops you getting a second setup on the same site either - covering another angle as long as it works for your flashes.

It's your dream build it how you want and show us the results


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2020 6:21 pm 
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Philldixon wrote:
Hi Daryl
Can I just chuck in that cameras are not as important as good glass in a decent image. Any dslr in the last 10 years is going to give you great imagery, almost beyond the wildest dreams.
However marry it to a too slow or duff lens and you get rubbish images - you don't need an expensive lens just choose wisely ( some older lenses are as good as all singing new ones).
Similarly the bigger and better the camera, the more it highlights poor focus and glass. Case in point the Nikon AF 50mm f1.4d is better optically than the plastic af-s G model imho for a fraction the price 2nd hand.
While the 24-120mm f3.5-5.6 lens is shockingly bad compared to the newer 24-120mm f4 kit lens or original film lens.
If you go FX then wide angles can be more expensive ( dx an 18-55mm kit lens is pretty darn great) but there are a few bargains.
Similarly don't buy the fastest lens you can afford as you probably don't need it - my 35mm f1.8g dx works well on an FX ( one of few exceptions) and is a fraction the price of FX contemporary

I have owned the D810 which is a fantastic camera. For a slightly cheaper alternative consider the D610 or for excellent low-light the D750 if you are sold on FX.
Skip the D600 as early models had a debris on sensor issue that gave them a bad rep and not everyone had the fix ( especially grey imports).
Second hand sub - 60k actuation models will give good service

Whatever you choose the camera is just a tool and there'll be lots of learning + enjoyment. Most importantly we are here to advise, you ultimately make the decision.

I personally own at the min
D850
D610
D500
D7200
D7100
D7000
D5100
D3200

Several of these were bought for special projects or astromod / full spectrum mod. None of these cameras has ever given me reason not to recommend them and all would likely do what you want - deliver great imagery.
Case in point my D5100 sits in the boot of my car with an old 55-300mm dx on it in case I come across something interesting, it still gives a great image and is 100× better than the camera sat at home not in my hand.

Nothing stops you getting a second setup on the same site either - covering another angle as long as it works for your flashes.

It's your dream build it how you want and show us the results


Thanks for all your advice and expertise. I really appreciate. It is a whole new learning curve and I have jumped right in. Admittedly there is lots to learn but I have received so much good information from everyone on this forum and other resources.

I have seen many of the cameras you have mentioned for sale in many places .. it’s a lot of fun searching and researching.

I like what you mentioned about nothing stops a person from having two setups at one site. I have done this with many point and shoots set to day only .. that’s a great point.

I love building so much. I had to do something as I am at near my limit of point and shoot cams. Now I can make 3 or more pieces for one setup.. it’s gonna be great.

I will post the results .. like others do.. again thanks so much for your input ... it’s well received.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2020 9:56 am 
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Flash gun power packs have two main benefits. One is that they extend the run time for the flash unit which may or may not be necessary for some camtrappers. However, the other benefit is that they greatly reduce the recycling time of the flash unit, which is useful for us camtrappers. Most of our subjects are photographed in passing and this benefit would mean fewer blank pictures at night.

Anybody have thoughts or personal experiences in using these?

https://www.adencamera.com/Pixel-TD-382 ... P1028.aspx

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