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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 5:06 pm 
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Glad you got it working!

I set the pulse length at lowest and the sensitivity fairly high. You need to be sure the pulse length is minimum (counter-clockwise). Otherwise it will give a very long signal and disrupt the program- if the input pin is still high (from a long PIR pulse) when the trigger cycle completes, the program will run another cycle.

Remember there is a PIR "recovery" period after the pulse of about 1 second or so where the unit is re-evaluating the scene and it will not fire. The SR502's I have (bought a bunch at once) plenty sensitive, usually too sensitive. In fact I often put a 6' long piece of 1" PVC over them to make a bit of a PIR rifle "beam." Works ok. I am sure there is come inconsistency in the quality on these PIR's.

Another brand I have used is the Parallax. It is not adjustable and very sensitive. I get a lot of false triggers with that one. I have not built anything around the Panasonic PIR line, but they are good.

Normally, I'll test the PIR's and programs with an led rather than a camera. Easy to see what the unit is doing and how it is reacting with that method.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 2:56 am 
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Gartooth wrote:
Glad you got it working!

I set the pulse length at lowest and the sensitivity fairly high. You need to be sure the pulse length is minimum (counter-clockwise). Otherwise it will give a very long signal and disrupt the program- if the input pin is still high (from a long PIR pulse) when the trigger cycle completes, the program will run another cycle.

Remember there is a PIR "recovery" period after the pulse of about 1 second or so where the unit is re-evaluating the scene and it will not fire. The SR502's I have (bought a bunch at once) plenty sensitive, usually too sensitive. In fact I often put a 6' long piece of 1" PVC over them to make a bit of a PIR rifle "beam." Works ok. I am sure there is come inconsistency in the quality on these PIR's.

Another brand I have used is the Parallax. It is not adjustable and very sensitive. I get a lot of false triggers with that one. I have not built anything around the Panasonic PIR line, but they are good.

Normally, I'll test the PIR's and programs with an led rather than a camera. Easy to see what the unit is doing and how it is reacting with that method.


I did notice the pulse lenth making it cycle through trigger events, so i turned it down to its minimum.

regarding sensitivity, i need to play with this, as i thought i had it set on maximum, but birds on a feeder were being missed, and it seemed they only trigger it if they flew on the outer edges of the sensors field? i did have it around 1.5 foot away so i may need to pull it further away?

to get an idea if my sensor needs changing, if you swipe your hand in front fast, do yours trigger? Mine needs to be a bit slower of a swipe, otherwise it will not register.

Thanks again,

Harry


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 10:55 am 
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Make sure you don’t have fingerprints on the PIR module surface. You might try moving it back. Should trigger if you wave your hand across the front. Have you tried it hooked straight to an led? Run the PIR output pin through resistor to the positive leg of an led and the other led leg to PIR battery ground. This will eliminate your controller as a limiting factor.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 5:14 pm 
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An after-thought and probably a dumb question but did you have your camera set in manual focus for those birds? Autofocus causes all kinds of issues.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 2:16 am 
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Gartooth wrote:
An after-thought and probably a dumb question but did you have your camera set in manual focus for those birds? Autofocus causes all kinds of issues.


i have a feeling i may have superglue residue on the PIR sensor cover!

the camera was in manual yes.

i will clean the PIR cover and try again, or remove it and try (but i am under the impression it makes the sensor more sentive as it refracts light etc?)

i keep getting wire connections breaking, and trying to come up with a better wiring route or system. Do you use multiconnectors for the negative and grounds which have multiple connections? (at the moment i am twisting them together, soldering and covering with heat shrink ) any chance you could post a pic? i want to make mine robust enough to work long term, and also plan on making another trigger system for a sony s600 and peli case i got for less than £20!, so want to get it right, and small as possible.

Regarding the programme, i added a couple more lines to yours, so i now have 4 shots per event (1 i know will likely be dark as i dont think the radio triggers i have will wake the flash up quick enough). i was planning on putting a few second delay (long enough for sb28 flash to fully recharge) after the last trigger.
Would this ensure the flash is ready to pop on the next event (likely to be 1/4 power at most? even if it went back into standby?

apologies for more questions, i appreciate your responses!

this is getting addictive, the Mrs is not happy!

regards,

Harry


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 6:35 am 
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Once the SB-28 is awake it doesn’t need additional handshake to wake again for the series of shots- the first pop does it and it will stay awake for the series. At 1/4 power your flashes will perform OK, but a wild false-trigger spell at 4-clicks would be hard on them.

I usually go with 2 pops per trigger because it is easier on flashes and ensures at least one solid flash pop after a long sleep. At 4 pops You might consider bumping your ISO up and maybe dropping your f# down so you can lower your flash intensity a full stop. Of course... this all depends on your set, range, desired lighting effect, etc... Your system will run smoother though at less power.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 7:23 am 
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Gartooth wrote:
Once the SB-28 is awake it doesn’t need additional handshake to wake again for the series of shots- the first pop does it and it will stay awake for the series. At 1/4 power your flashes will perform OK, but a wild false-trigger spell at 4-clicks would be hard on them.

I usually go with 2 pops per trigger because it is easier on flashes and ensures at least one solid flash pop after a long sleep. At 4 pops You might consider bumping your ISO up and maybe dropping your f# down so you can lower your flash intensity a full stop. Of course... this all depends on your set, range, desired lighting effect, etc... Your system will run smoother though at less power.


thanks for the advice, i will drop down to 2 or 3 as i dont want to fry it.
Are the sb24s any good? a couple i can get my hands on for a reasonable price have come up.

i ordered some Cowboy Studio triggers, as i have read on here they are good for the money, so should have my first set up ready this weekend fingers crossed!

Harry


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 2:14 pm 
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One of the many reasons I like camtrapper.com and the folks that visit this site is evident in this posting and many others. Wide range (new-experienced) of camtrap folks out there willing to ask questions and receiving replies from camtrappers willing to share their wide range of knowledge on a wide range of subjects. :awesome Although, most of what was discussed in this post is way over my head in terms of understanding, I still appreciate the info and it must seep into my brain somehow. :rofll


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