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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 12:22 am 
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stinky wrote:
I found my Canon lithium ion batteries were not up to the task of cold weather use and would not last the night when the temps dipped below freezing. I started using a dummy battery and SLA battery to give me weeks of cold-weather use.


Just curious....were they actually Canon brand batteries? Or one of the many Chinese made replacements?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 12:40 am 
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Gartooth wrote:
Doublecheck the diagram on the PIR post- keep ground separate from Shutter and meter wires.


Will do, thanks.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 3:03 am 
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Gartooth wrote:
Doublecheck the diagram on the PIR post- keep ground separate from Shutter and meter wires.


i think have merged the ground and focus into one, and shutter seperate.
if i were to merge the shutter and focus together, and then the ground seperately would this work?

i ask because the optocoupler has two pins going to the camera, and two from the arduino, not sure where i could run the camera ground wire?

the simpler i can keep the build the better, but if TRL Cam thinks i should use two optocouplers i will, not sure how this would be wires into my current set up?

the wiring at the moment is as per the below, except an optocoupler is in place of the transistor, with pins 4 and 5 conntectin to the camera with my dodgy merging of the ground!

Apologies for further questions.

I certainly owe you a beer or two

Harry


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 1:26 pm 
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Or, you can just add another transistor to control the metering. You might reduce the value of the resistor in the base line of both transistors to something around 2k and connect both to the same IO port on your Arduino. Any general purpose NPN transistor will work. The 2N2222 is probably the most common and will work fine.

Since you are adding another transistor you might just run the resistor in the base to another IO on the Arduino and then you can activate the metering and wake the flash a half second before tripping the shutter. Just a couple more lines of code to write and you will have full control of both circuits.

Or, the absolute simplest way to fire a Nikon is to use two small signal diodes. Something like a 1N4001. One in the metering line and one in the shutter line. This will isolate the metering from the shutter and both from the Arduino. Tie the other end together and connect to your IO port on the Arduino. Then change your code from active high to active low. this will work but the transistor or optocoupler method will give you more isolation between the Arduino and camera.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 5:03 pm 
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TRLcam... The Master camtrap tech. :-)

Jeff- Outside of the SS2 and your sweet PIR trigger, I am usually running wireless rigs. So, the circuit above normally runs to the respected legs of the transmitter button. I think the transmitter automatically performs the flash handshake with the receiver (Oppilas units). When wiring straight to the camera, is a separate meter handshake required to send a timely flash signal through the hot shoe? Or, is it just a little insurance to get a solid signal to the flash?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 8:33 pm 
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The Canon 40d batteries would die in extreme temperatures before I even set up my rig. I think one battery was an original OEM, the second most likely was a Chinese made replacement. I had both in a non-OEM grip and they failed too. Either way, I don't trust them now. SLA for all of my remote camera rigs.

TRLcam wrote:
stinky wrote:
I found my Canon lithium ion batteries were not up to the task of cold weather use and would not last the night when the temps dipped below freezing. I started using a dummy battery and SLA battery to give me weeks of cold-weather use.


Just curious....were they actually Canon brand batteries? Or one of the many Chinese made replacements?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 11:18 pm 
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Gartooth wrote:
TRLcam... The Master camtrap tech. :-)

Jeff- Outside of the SS2 and your sweet PIR trigger, I am usually running wireless rigs. So, the circuit above normally runs to the respected legs of the transmitter button. I think the transmitter automatically performs the flash handshake with the receiver (Oppilas units). When wiring straight to the camera, is a separate meter handshake required to send a timely flash signal through the hot shoe? Or, is it just a little insurance to get a solid signal to the flash?


Hi Casey.......Nikon requires a separate signal to metering and shutter to make a picture. Canon requires only the shutter to be run to ground. When running manual flashes without TTL there is no handshake. When the shutter button is pressed half way down, a positive voltage is sent through one pin on the hotshoe to the flash to wake it up. Then when the shutter button is held down all the way the shutter line is taken to ground firing the flash.

The only reason I give the camera and flash a half second to wake is because of extreme cold. It seems sometimes the camera and flash just don't respond as quickly as when warm.

So, everything I build is set up to run a Nikon. That way it will work with Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony, Pentax, etc.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 12:27 am 
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Gotcha. Thanks for the explanation.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 8:22 am 
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TRLcam wrote:
That is correct. On Nikon cameras the shutter and metering lines must be separate. If you grounded the metering line, the camera and flash will not sleep. So battery life on both will be short. If you want to connect the shutter and metering use two small signal diodes to isolate each. But the best way is to use two optocouplers and program your controller to wake the camera and flash about 500ms before shutter click.


Hi Trl,

i finally got round to rewiring the trigger.
i have done what you suggested- used a seperate optocoupler for the ground and metering/focus.
my question is now coding, how do i go about the arduino code?

the code i currently had was the below, which has pin 2 connected to the PIR and pin 1 output to the opto. I have now connected the second opto to pin 3.
can anyone help with a code for the new set up?

int motion_1 = 2;
int light_1 = 1;
void setup() {
pinMode (motion_1, INPUT);
pinMode (light_1, OUTPUT);
}

void loop () {
digitalWrite (light_1, LOW);

int sensor_1 = digitalRead(motion_1);
if (sensor_1 == HIGH) {
digitalWrite(light_1, HIGH);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(light_1, LOW);
delay(400);
digitalWrite(light_1, HIGH);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(light_1, LOW);
delay(600);

}
}


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 10:26 am 
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Try this... I think it will work but don't have an unit to test at the moment. Pin 1 is shutter, Pin 3 is meter. Meter fires for 1/2 second upon motion event, then shutter & meter both fire 2 times with 400 ms gap between fires. If you do not want the meter to wake up the flash for 1/2 second, then just delete that line and the delay 500 line that follows. You may need to adjust your remaining delays to be sure the code does not run twice. Depends how long your motion sensor pulse is.

int motion_1 = 2;
int shutter_1 = 1;
int meter_1 = 3;

void setup() {
pinMode (motion_1, INPUT);
pinMode (shutter_1, OUTPUT);
pinMode (meter_1, OUTPUT);
}

void loop () {
digitalWrite (shutter_1, LOW);
digitalWrite (meter_1, LOW);

int sensor_1 = digitalRead(motion_1);
if (sensor_1 == HIGH) {
digitalWrite(meter_1, HIGH);
delay(500);
digitalWrite(meter_1, HIGH);
digitalWrite(shutter_1, HIGH);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(meter_1, LOW);
digitalWrite(shutter_1, LOW);
delay (400);
digitalWrite(meter_1, HIGH);
digitalWrite(shutter_1, HIGH);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(meter_1, LOW);
digitalWrite(shutter_1, LOW);
delay (400);

}
}

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