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PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 9:35 pm 
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Gentoo
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JonnyA wrote:
JB-

Nice! Yeah I really think the two sensor rig, harnessing the low power draw of a PIR would be great, but I have to restrain myself from fiddling with electronics right now. How did the range IR work as a camera trap trigger?

I've had the Scout out in the field since Thanksgiving and it appears to be a winner, some bizarre design features, but solid so far -- been able to run the camera off just the internal battery for >1 month because there are no falses.

cheers
J


The RangeIR works like magic! If it would go a month on AA batteries, I'd use it for just about everything.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 7:18 pm 
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I'd be interested in hearing what this does to your battery life. Are you still using the AAs?

Gartooth wrote:
Thanks! Going to try to get this unit back out in the field this weekend.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 8:46 am 
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Yep, using AA's.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 12:13 pm 
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Fledgling
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is there any way to eliminate the Aruduino? so just have the trigger off a beam break?
stinky wrote:
The problem I had with the Instructable is that the Aruduino is power hungry, and I couldn't get more than 24 hours out of the build, but that was fine with me because I was using it mostly on a day-to-day basis. I wrote the instructable mostly to learn how active IR sensors work. I'm really not a hardware guy, but I'm going to have to look at using the Arduino mini and revisit the project. Thanks for getting some new ideas into the project. I have a another active IR system that I have been playing with, I just haven't had the time to get things into a system I can get out into the field or document.

Alignment with the yourduino.com sensors is super easy. He seems to be the only local seller and the price is right.

I like your housing for the IR sensors. Cleaner than the pelican case I used. Love to see some pics taken with the rig.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 1:51 pm 
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Yes, you could do it easily by connecting the receiver beam's output wire and the camera shutter wires to a transistor or optocoupler. But you would leave control of the shutter clicks to the beam interruption. This means you gamble with either too few or too many fires per beam break event. Also, if the 2 beams became misaligned it would result in uncontrolled misfires.

You could also incorporate low power sketch in Arduino or build a low power ATM 328 controller, or another chip. Arduino is merely convenient.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 11:18 am 
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Fledgling
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how would you somehow lower the power? if using the build that stinky has designed and using 8AA batteries roughly how long could you manage to keep it running if you powered down the arduino ?

I am new to this so havent got a clue what other possibilities I can use. Ideall y would like a beam break system that I could leave for up to 2 weeks at a time before changing batteries. ( I can check it every other day to make sure the beams are alligned)
Thanks !

Gartooth wrote:
Yes, you could do it easily by connecting the receiver beam's output wire and the camera shutter wires to a transistor or optocoupler. But you would leave control of the shutter clicks to the beam interruption. This means you gamble with either too few or too many fires per beam break event. Also, if the 2 beams became misaligned it would result in uncontrolled misfires.

You could also incorporate low power sketch in Arduino or build a or another chip. Arduino is merely convenient.


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