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PostPosted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 9:24 am 
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Too cold and icy for camera trapping so I dusted off the soldering iron and coding skillz. I've been thinking about this design for a few months, and will update this post as the build happens.

I had all of these sitting around, the seco-larm was from an older project that never happened. An Arduino trinket or pro mini for low power consumption, opto-coupler to keep camera safe, 3.5mm connector, and 12v 5ah battery to keep everything running for a week or more. Arduino and ir sensor will both run off of the 12v sla battery. Housing will most likely be a weather proof Harbor Freight ammo box (with coupon it looks like its less than $3.00)

Its weatheproof, 12v, time tested, and according to their specs, standby current draw is 20mA. Signal is SPDT Relay output (NO/NC/COM), should be an easy build.


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 Post subject: Re: new IR build
PostPosted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 9:33 am 
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Very cool! Looking forward to seeing the build. :-)

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 Post subject: Re: new IR build
PostPosted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 12:20 pm 
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Quick sketchup in photoshop. Probably would have been faster to assemble the design than to figure out how to document it in photoshop.


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 Post subject: Re: new IR build
PostPosted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 1:36 pm 
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Lookin good. You could throw a deer feeder solar panel in there and run that thing indefinitely. :-)

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 Post subject: Re: new IR build
PostPosted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 10:51 am 
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After the Pats lost there was no way I was going to sleep anytime soon so I finished up the build. Went together fast. Pretty easy build, nothing too difficult. I haven't used the Jokie a lot, but this reminds me of a much larger version.

A weatherproof Harbor Freight ammo case houses the 12v battery, arduino trinket, optocopuler, and wiring for the remote shutter cable. 80/20 Alumium extrusions attached to the case provide a flexible and stable mounting point for the IR sensor. I've had it running since last night and at least inside in the office, it seems to be working great. Arduino code for now, fires the camera 3 times on each trigger, followed by a period of 20 seconds of waiting.

Next step will be mounting a battery-friendly passive IR sensor to wake the active IR sensor when movement is detected. Plenty of room in the case, so the passive IR sensor will probably mount under the handle.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 8:26 am 
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I've been doing this long enough to know that capturing this fox on the first night of a prototype arduino system is pure luck, but it does work. I dropped the Arduino-IR sensor in place of my regular unit, which as been sitting for weeks without capturing anything. Again, pure luck. I still have yet to add the PIR sensor.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 10:58 am 
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With the PIR sensor mounted in a weatherproof project box to protect it from the elements, plastic tube to narrow field of view, and RAM mounts to make it wicked adjustable. Mounting the PIR sensor inside of the case would have limited its usefulness. The idea is to have the PIR sensor aimed up the trail to give the arduino time to start the active IR sensor. It has cammo tape because its from a recycled project.

Just need to wire it up and start coding.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 1:02 pm 
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Badass.

Does the unit turning on/off from the motion sensor cause any addition shots to be taken? I guess technically it shouldn't if it disables the whole unit. I am wondering if I can put both the transmitter and receiver of the myarduino unit in the same box and shoot off a reflector. You can buy the reflectors for a few bucks. The PIR would also go in the box and control power to the whole thing.

One issue with separate transmitter/receiver boxes on the second myarduino version I'm building is that the PIR is connected to the transmitter to conserve power- it's primary purpose. If the PIR turns the transmitter on for 20 or 30 seconds and then off the receiver understands it as a beam interrupt event and fires one camera cycle, even though the beam has not technically been broken. Not a big deal unless you get a bunch of false triggers on a hot Texas afternoon, or if the critter is lingering and has not yet passed through the beam.

Maybe there is a code workaround but I can't seem to think of how it would work.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 4:56 pm 
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The only purpose the motion sensor is to tell the arduino that there is motion and to turn on the active IR sensor through a relay. The active IR sensor will remain on for a set period of time (probs 10 minutes), all other activity from the PIR will be ignored while the active IR sensor is enabled. After 10 minutes, the active IR shuts off and the arduino will listen for motion on the PIR sensor again. The PIR motion sensor does not fire the camera, only the active IR sensor when the beam is broken. Does this make sense?

The thinking is to take advantage of the PIR sensor (~70uA) power requirements, the trinket or pro mini (~5mA), and use the seco-larm sensor only when needed (~20mA)

I haven't wired up the PIR and the relay yet, I just noticed that I need to swap the 3v trinket out for the 5v trinket for these added features. :pullhare I guess if I had updated the hardware diagram I would have figured this out earlier.

The fox picture was just from testing the seco-larm active IR sensor.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 5:53 pm 
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Yes I understand, and on the unit i am testing the PIR does not control the camera. It controls the power to the AIR transmitter. When the PIR senses motion it turns the power on for 30 seconds. But when the transmitter power turns off the receiver thinks that the beam has been broken and fires one round of photos. The code on the Arduino which is connected to the receiver prevents it from continuing to fire.

Why do you need the 5v controller instead of the 3.3v?

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