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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 3:03 pm 
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grizzlyadams wrote:
I'm just wondering don't I need to pull down the power up lead first to let the Rebel power up and focus (though I will often use manual focus) and then pull down the trigger function lead. Or can I just pull down both simultaneously on the Rebel and let it sort it out? I'm looking forward to the larger sensor and RAW capability of the DSLR.

Thanks for the help!


I never auto focus anything. You don't need to pull the focus contact down if you don't want to on the Canon. On Nikon DSLR cameras you have to pull both to ground.

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 8:21 am 
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Thanks for the info guys...I pretty much have all the stuff now to build my first DSLR cam...rebel xt, 18-55 lens, battery grip, snorkel, case, ss2 etc...getting pretty excited to start building, but just curious how you guys are connecting the cam to the board?

I remember a while ago it was mentioned that no hack is needed. You using the shutter release port and stereo connector?

Pred

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 8:37 am 
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Yes, I used a stereo connector on the Digital Rebel T1i. It was a piece of cake reworking an old Pixcontroller universal board set originally for RS-232 cameras, just change the chip, redo the solder jumpers, solder the shutter lead to the plug tip contact on the board, and solder the ground to the bottom ring contact on the board and then it is plug and play. It works great with a S40 universal trail mode chip. Put it all in a green Pelican 1300 case and Bob's your Uncle! I'm doing another one once I get another DSLR off ebay. It makes doing those hacks on the Sony W90s I used to do so tedious for the resulting image quality by comparison.

Good Luck!


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 8:40 am 
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That's right. Just use the three conductor 2.5mm connector on the side of of the camera.

Image

Here is the pinout.

Image

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 8:41 am 
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Cool thanks! So it's just shutter and common...no power? So you turn the cam on and leave it on?

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 8:45 am 
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That is correct. The Canon has a great sleep mode. In warm weather I can get 30+ days. If that is not enough then find a battery grip to double the life.

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 8:51 am 
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Cool so is the AF for refresh...would you put that into the power port on the board?

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 9:09 am 
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Motion Detector – This time we will use a Snapshot Sniper housed in a Seahorse housing. I like keeping the motion detector separate from the camera housing to give me more flexibility in the shot composition. Plus sometimes I use a active IR detector or the X-band detector rather than this passive IR detector. Having it separate makes swapping easy. Every shot target area is different and the more tools you have available the better.

what model of motion detector from snapshot sniper did you used?

Denis


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 9:51 am 
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Predator 1 wrote:
Cool so is the AF for refresh...would you put that into the power port on the board?


No, on the Canon you don't need the AF pin. All you need is the shutter pin and ground.

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 10:33 am 
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dcallet wrote:
Motion Detector – This time we will use a Snapshot Sniper housed in a Seahorse housing. I like keeping the motion detector separate from the camera housing to give me more flexibility in the shot composition. Plus sometimes I use a active IR detector or the X-band detector rather than this passive IR detector. Having it separate makes swapping easy. Every shot target area is different and the more tools you have available the better.

what model of motion detector from snapshot sniper did you used?

Denis


I used the SSII for this project.

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