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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 10:22 am 
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I guess I would call it "soft lighting", but I'm a rookie, so not sure what you call it, but I'm wondering how you get this type of lighting?

Here is a pic that Kalon shared in the DSLR threads of a wolverine. I get it that it is a dslr, but the lighting seems to be all equal around the subject, with no spotlight of any kind...

Image

Now here is one of my pics with a s600, but external flash moved away from the camera about 9 feet... Notice the spotlight effect.

Image

So, I guess I'm asking how do I get more of the soft look for flash, like Kalon's pic, vs the more bright spotlight look I am getting now?

Is it the remote slaves, do they give off more of a soft light..... Or filters on the DSLR's lens?

Thanks for any info, as I would like to get to this type of picture some day, just not sure how to go about it.....


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 12:36 pm 
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As for your S600 off-board flash. I would try moving the flash to about 18" directly above the camera. That is to say, place the flash lens 18" above the camera lens. Try AUTO ISO, PROGRAM MODE, FLASH LEVEL - (minus) to start with. That would be fine for subjects up to say 10 ft. Increase flash level to medium if not bright enough. It looks like you may have your flash set to +. The S600 has a very bright flash and you should start with the lowest flash setting and move up from there. Let me show you a typical, unedited picture taken with an S600 with a slave flash placed at 18" above the camera's flash. You don't have that spotlight effect or the red eye effect but you will still have shadows. The only true way of illuminating the shadows is for multiple slave flashes. One slave flash will always create shadows on the backside of a subject. The idea of a second slave flash is to light up the shadows by being placed on the other side of the subject.

Have a look at this post to get an idea of this. viewtopic.php?f=113&t=10952

Contact Ralph Davis at rcdavisgamecamerasolutions and talk to him about slave flashes if you want more of an even lighting look. He's closed down for the time being, in the midst of a big move. He should be up and running again within the next week or two I would imagine. He has two different slave flash options that will definitely improve your lighting. One being a wireless slave flash and the other is a remote slave flash. Inquire about the slave flash with the pigtail cord.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 12:49 pm 
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ya, I do have the flash set to the plus. I do have the iso set to auto. Thanks I will put the flash to the - setting. I would say that picture I have, was probably about 10-15ft away. I have a feeling I have a lot to learn about lighting, but that's why I am here, I love all the knowledge here..... Thanks again!


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 6:01 pm 
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Bones, I like too set ISO to 200 for the S600 with the offset flash. If you use auto ISO, pics requiring flash will default to ISO 1000 which results in overexposure. Now you lose quality in the pics you get in full daylight with ISO 200, so it might be worth experimenting with lowering the flash level--that might let you get away with auto ISO so you get better quality day shots.

This pic has ISO set to 200, flash about 18 inches above the camera. I personally like the shadows, and like Westcoastcanuck says, only way to get rid of them is fill them in with slave flashes.

Image

You could also try blocking the flash somewhat. On my slaves made from the Vivatar flashes, I block it with a piece of milk carton.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 6:17 pm 
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Bkontio, good stuff....

How far away is that fox from the camera and flash? I really should have did more experimenting with the flash at home before I took it out to the field. I guess I was too excited to get it out there to start soaking. I do have two of these setups out in the field right now, but I'm going to go get one of them tomorrow, bring it home, and do testing tomorrow night. I will try switching flash to - first, and then play with the ISO, starting with 200. I had no idea on auto it automatically put ISO at 1000. No wonder it's so bright.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:18 pm 
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Bones wrote:
Bkontio, good stuff....

How far away is that fox from the camera and flash? I really should have did more experimenting with the flash at home before I took it out to the field. I guess I was too excited to get it out there to start soaking. I do have two of these setups out in the field right now, but I'm going to go get one of them tomorrow, bring it home, and do testing tomorrow night. I will try switching flash to - first, and then play with the ISO, starting with 200. I had no idea on auto it automatically put ISO at 1000. No wonder it's so bright.


i have the same problem of wanting to get the cam out in the woods as fast as I can....

The fox is pretty darn close. That's an uncropped photo.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 8:16 am 
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Bkontio wrote:
Bones, I like too set ISO to 200 for the S600 with the offset flash. If you use auto ISO, pics requiring flash will default to ISO 1000 which results in overexposure. Now you lose quality in the pics you get in full daylight with ISO 200, so it might be worth experimenting with lowering the flash level--that might let you get away with auto ISO so you get better quality day shots.

This pic has ISO set to 200, flash about 18 inches above the camera. I personally like the shadows, and like Westcoastcanuck says, only way to get rid of them is fill them in with slave flashes.

Image

You could also try blocking the flash somewhat. On my slaves made from the Vivatar flashes, I block it with a piece of milk carton.


I really don't mind the shadows, just looking for that softer looking flash.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 8:10 am 
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Bkontio wrote:
Bones, I like too set ISO to 200 for the S600 with the offset flash. If you use auto ISO, pics requiring flash will default to ISO 1000 which results in overexposure. Now you lose quality in the pics you get in full daylight with ISO 200, so it might be worth experimenting with lowering the flash level--that might let you get away with auto ISO so you get better quality day shots.



With the ISO set to auto the s600 should adjust to lower ISO's if needed. Some of the W series cams default to a higher ISO but not the S600 from what I have seen.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 2:51 pm 
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johnnydeerhunter wrote:
Bkontio wrote:
Bones, I like too set ISO to 200 for the S600 with the offset flash. If you use auto ISO, pics requiring flash will default to ISO 1000 which results in overexposure. Now you lose quality in the pics you get in full daylight with ISO 200, so it might be worth experimenting with lowering the flash level--that might let you get away with auto ISO so you get better quality day shots.



With the ISO set to auto the s600 should adjust to lower ISO's if needed. Some of the W series cams default to a higher ISO but not the S600 from what I have seen.

Yup, I run 9 of the S600's in AUTO ISO and have found that to be true as well. You will find that the closer the subject the lower the ISO value will be.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 5:26 pm 
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westcocanuck2 wrote:
johnnydeerhunter wrote:
Bkontio wrote:
Bones, I like too set ISO to 200 for the S600 with the offset flash. If you use auto ISO, pics requiring flash will default to ISO 1000 which results in overexposure. Now you lose quality in the pics you get in full daylight with ISO 200, so it might be worth experimenting with lowering the flash level--that might let you get away with auto ISO so you get better quality day shots.



With the ISO set to auto the s600 should adjust to lower ISO's if needed. Some of the W series cams default to a higher ISO but not the S600 from what I have seen.

Yup, I run 9 of the S600's in AUTO ISO and have found that to be true as well. You will find that the closer the subject the lower the ISO value will be.


I looked back at some old photos from my S600 and see you guys are right. When I started playing around with the offset flash was when I noticed the ISO 1000 pics whenever the flash was used. Correct me if I am wrong, but the camera fires a pre flash which allows it to measure the amount of bounce back and tell how close the subject is and adjust the ISO accordingly. With the flash offset, it must not "see" as much flash bouncing back.


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