First thing after you get the camera is to turn it on and set it to the suggested program settings and take some test pictures both inside and outside and daytime and dark. Check the pictures on your on a computer to make sure the focus is good.

Note: I'm using wooden pointers to point towards the areas that I'm talking about.

I used a 6 wire servo modified to make it a 5 wire fasthack. You can use a standard 5 wire if fasthacking or a 4 wire if a standard (non fasthack) is what you are doing.

After you're sure the cameras focus is good turn the camera on in picture mode and let the lens extend. Then with the camera still on open the battery door and remove the batteries. This leaves the lens extended and more importantly the lens doors opened so they can be disabled. Now move the selector switch to review mode, this is important so you don't break the selector tab off of the backboard later.

Now remove the 4 case screws and remove the front and back halves of the case. Be aware not to touch the flash capacitor contacts. You also need to have the battery door open slightly to separate the case halves.


Tape over the capacitor contacts and put a piece of tape on the lcd screen so it doesn't flop around




Cut or unsolder the lens door wires from the cameras back board


cut or unsolder the cameras lens door wires from the motor on the front half of the case.

These next steps aren't necessary but I like to do it to keep the lens doors from someday coming loose and falling in front of the lens.

Pull the 2 springs that assist the lens doors closing.



Make sure the lens doors are out of the way and apply nail polish to the lens motor gear and to the lens doors.

If you're going to fasthack the camera remove the white wire where the red arrow points.

Now I like to drill the back of the silver finger tab on the inside of the case to remove it. Don't drill all the way through, just enough to remove most of the green sonic weld. Then pry off the silver finger tab on the front of the case.




Pop off the silver tab



Then drill from the front of he case between the B and the Y in the word cybershot, this is where the wires for the servo will enter/exit the case.

Remove the screw in the power bar tab, after removing the screw separate the grey L shaped cover from the button block under the buttons. There is a little tab you move to the side to separate them.



I cut my servo to length before hand, this servo has been modified to split the common on the servo, I normally split it elsewhere to share for the external power negative and the power/shutter common on the control board.

In this picture:
Red- external power positive
Black- external power negative (which will also be common on the control board)
Orange- power (on/off)
Yellow- shutter
Blue- Fasthack (lens) wire



Now put the servo through the hole in the front of the case and route the wires like I have in the picture. The external power wires go under the ribbons on the bottom of the main board and up through the lens ribbons on the side. The fast hack wire goes under the ribbons on the bottom of the main board and then around to the back of the camera. Power and shutter will go up the front and next to the flash, make sure not to pinch them when putting the front half of the case back on.



Here's where to solder your external power wires, red is positive and black is negative



Here's the power and shutter wires soldered in place. After doing this you can reassemble the button block and grey L shaped housing and screw back in place.





You can now put the front half of the cover back on, I leave the tape over the capacitor contacts. If fasthacking the camera run the fasthack wire in front of the lens and around to the back of the camera. Then remove the white wire from the backboard and solder you fasthack (lens) wire in it's place.

Now make sure the back half of the cover is still in review mode and the slide switch is slid all the way to the left (when looking at the back of the camera) and remove the tape on the lcd screen and re-install the back cover. Put all the screws back in and mount the servo to the front of the case. You can mount the servo connector facing up or down depending on where you are putting the camera in your build.

Nicely done Johnny!
I think I could even do it

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JCTA- Joe's Custom Trailcam Accessories

Great presentation Johnny but I would still rather have you do my hacks.

Nice Johnny but only scaredy cats and sissies cover the flash capacitor

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With sufficient thrust pigs fly just fine