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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 12:48 am 
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This is one of those long drawn out projects that I have recently finished off. It's a Sony Nex3n APS-C sensor camera build with the option of using one or multiple baby slave flashes. It also has an option of using a remote PIR sensor which is actually a modified driveway sensor. The cam build has the typical HPWA sensor built in also. This remote sensor works like a charm and has terrific reception to boot. For the sake of the new members, I have labelled most of the visible parts with names, part numbers and or suppliers.

Here is the parts list followed by the pictures:

A - Laminated foam spacers to bring the flash lens flush up to the closed lid.
B - 1.5v baby slave flash assembly (by RCDavis Game Camera Solutions)
C - SMT Slave Flash Control Board (by RCDavis Game Camera Solutions)
D - PT-04 TMII 433Mhz wireless slave flash receiver (eBay)
E - 4.5v 3 x "AA" (in series) to power Slave Flash Control Board
F - 1.5v 3 x "AA" (in parallel) to power baby slave flash (eBay)
G - Terminal block (eBay)
H - "Square D" disconnect enclosure #FP221R (eBay)
I - "Pelican" 1020 case
J - "Siemens" disconnect enclosure #WN2066 (Homedepot)
K - Remote PIR "driveway" Sensor (by RCDavis Game Camera Solutions)
L - ON/OFF push button
M - Laminated foam spacers (to position sensor exactly where I want it to sit to face out the opening)
N - 4" PVC plastic pipe for added lens protection
O - "Pelican" 1200 case
P - "Pelican" 1120 case
Q - 82mm. telephoto metal lens hood w 77mm. UV filter (eBay)
R - HPWA fresnel lens (Snapshot Sniper, DIY Trail Cameras or RCDavis Game Camera Solutions)
S - Foam spacers
T - 1/4" neoprene rubber sponge rope seal (waterproof seal) fashioned into O-rings & joined with Crazy Glue. (Snapshot Sniper, RCDavis Game Camera Solutions)
U - Safari SMT Camera Controller Board, Flash Backpacker Board & Remote PIR Receiver Backpacker Board with external antenna (RCDavis Game Camera Solutions)
V - Mini DC 2.5-30v. led voltage meter for Safari SMT Camera Controller Board & Remote PIR Receiver Backpacker Board (eBay)
W - Mini momentary on/off push button for voltage meter (eBay)
X - on/off toggle switch for both Safari SMT Camera Controller Board & Remote PIR Receiver Backpacker Board (RCDavis Game Camera Solutions)
Y - PT-04 TMII 433Mhz wireless slave flash transmitter (eBay)
Z - Sony Nex3n camera in raised flash position. The flash activates the PT sensor in front of the flash. Which then relays the signal to set off slave flash via the control board and wireless transmitter.
A1 - Foam spacers
B1 - Terminal block
C1 - Sliding quick release plate which adjusts back and forth to accommodate different lens lengths (eBay)
D1 - 4.5v 3 x "AA" (in series) to power Safari SMT Camera Controller Board & Remote PIR Receiver Backpacker Board


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 3:36 am 
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Great looking build!

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 4:33 am 
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Ok so I am going to stick my neck out here i am not ashamed of asking questions. Can you explain quickly how it all works please as i am most interested.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 11:35 am 
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buckhuntertrailcam wrote:
Ok so I am going to stick my neck out here i am not ashamed of asking questions. Can you explain quickly how it all works please as i am most interested.

There's no such thing as a dumb question, only dumb answers.....so ask away. Although it's a short and simple question it is a very long drawn out reply to cover everything. I'll cover the basics of this system and its operations.

CAMERA:
This camera takes pictures, has a built-in flash, and basically operates like any other camera. Instead of my cutting a hole for the flash to exit out of the case. I installed a PT sensor (phototransistor) directly in front of where the cameras flash extends. When the camera decides to activate the flash, that flash beam hits the PT sensor directly in front of it. That flash impulse is instantly detected and then an electronic signal is sent to the control board. The control board is preprogrammed to then send a signal to the wireless transmitter which is wired up to it. The wireless transmitter then sends a signal via the wonders of magic to the receiver.

Note: You can still cut out a hole for the flash to escape and have it function as it's intended to but I chose not to. I chose to omit that flash and use wireless slave flashes instead for more personal creativity. The whole purpose was to eliminate the red/white eye effect from the flash being too close to the lens of the camera. Plus to have more control of where and what I want the flash to illuminate. Slave flash and baby slave flash are nothing more than large or small flashes that we decide where to place, independent of the camera.

SLAVE FLASH:
The receiver that is in another self-contained case that is placed somewhere in the detection range. Usually placed in a position to illuminate the subject in a pleasing way. The receiver is hooked up to a specially designed board called an SMT Slave Flash Control Board. Which is built and programmed specifically to operate slave flashes. To my knowledge, there is only one manufacturer who makes these (see my notes to look further into these). The SMT Slave Flash Control Board also has a PT sensor as well as a CD sensor wired up to it. The PT sensor is placed in front of the flash lens to pick up the flash pulse. The CD sensor is positioned at the flash glass opening to view the ambient light level (see close-up in the picture posted). If the CD sensor detects that it's too light out for a flash to be used, then the flash won't fire. This function is designed to save battery power and to top off the flash capacitor only when it's dark out. The flash assembly is comprised of more electronic bits and was salvaged from those disposable 35mm film cameras. The SMT Slave Flash Control Board, flash assembly, wireless receiver and the external power supplies for the components. Are all married together to function as one.

NOTE: You only need one wireless transmitter in the camera build for this to happen. Then one wireless receiver per slave flash but as many slave flashes as your heart desires. So long as the wireless transmitters and receivers are set to the same frequency. You easily set the matching frequencies yourself with each individual unit (see close-ups of these in the post).

PIR REMOTE SENSOR:
This is such a simple device that gives you so much more flexibility in expanding detection. It works exactly the same way as the built-in PIR sensor found in most builds today. The R2D2 Starwars looking thing is a basic driveway sensor. It can be placed where ever you want, within range, to have an extra level of detection. It can work independently or in conjunction with the standard game cam's sensor. Tape off the game cams sensor and just use the remote sensor if you wish.

Now, on the cameras end of things. There is the Remote PIR Receiver Backpacker Board which is connected to the Safari SMT Camera Controller Board. It's here where the transmitter signal is received from the remote PIR driveway sensor. Which in turn activates the camera and flash if needed.

The beauty of the remote sensor is that you can have it down low and the cam up high and you won't miss a thing. You can place it 100 ft. off in the distance to detect animals that the game cams sensor can't pick up. For those vast landscape scenery sets. You can place it on the trail to detect movement which then wakes the camera and fires a pic as soon as the animal enters the field of view. That you will have to fine tune with the distance and your cameras speed. One idea I had for next fall during the annual Salmon spawn. Was to install a camera underwater in a spawning bed. Place a remote PIR sensor above water aimed 5 ft. in front of the camera. As a Bear approaches the camera in search of fish. My game cameras sensor will not detect underwater but my remote PIR sensor will above water. This will, in turn, will now activate my camera underwater which then takes a picture of spawning Salmon. Then hopefully a set of Bear paws underwater as well. With that operation to work then I would have to have a camera with a flash glass opening. The point is, you are only limited by your imagination in how to use this device.

I hope that this helps you better understand things or steers you in the right direction. To everybody, If I made any mistakes in my description, let me know so I can edit it.

Here are some of the local suppliers that can be of further help:
http://rcdavisgamecamerasolutions.weebly.com/
http://www.trailcamkits.com/
http://www.trailcamkits.com/

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 6:47 pm 
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Great looking build Gary. Very well done. Near and tidy. Let see some pictures from this baby..


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 7:15 pm 
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ghosthunters wrote:
Great looking build Gary. Very well done. Near and tidy. Let see some pictures from this baby..


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Yah, I tend to get carried away with my builds sometimes :whistle

There's a bit of an overcrowding situation with my backyard wildlife at times. Mind you, they seem to have all adjusted nicely to my game cam testing though :)
The first one is with flash and the other is without flash.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 7:17 pm 
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Wicked .. wow!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 7:10 am 
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Wow they are sharp. I take it they are around the other way the first one is with the flash, right Gary? I recognize the quail because I actually have them here in my aviary (in Australia), but what is that other bird?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 11:43 am 
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buckhuntertrailcam wrote:
Wow they are sharp. I take it they are around the other way the first one is with the flash, right Gary? I recognize the quail because I actually have them here in my aviary (in Australia), but what is that other bird?

Yah, and I have the sharpness turned down too. The daytime pics naturally turn out better than the flash pics. The flash tends to raise the contrast levels, produces a bluish tint and over sharpens the finer details. I find that if I set the flash to the CLOUDY setting. Then that produces a nice warm tint to the pics. Which is nicer for the nighttime flash pics but too warm for the daytime pics I find.

California Quail and the Rufous Sided Towhee. Here's another species called an Oregan Junco. It was taken with no flash on a cloudy day.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 9:10 pm 
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Super looking build and great photos.


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